Somebody said last night there just aren’t enough adjectives to describe what we see every day. This stretch in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park between Rocky Top and Davenport has been my favorite so far. Most of this morning, I’ve been walking along a narrow ridgeline above 6,000 feet in some places that drops off steeply on both sides—still walking in the shade of these evergreens. 

Got to see some spectacular cliffs (Charlie’s Bunion) and sat with Maineiac and Eggman a while. Eggman said he was told billions of years ago, these mountains were over 14,000 feet taller. I wish I could convey to my family and friends the moments like that. You may get a glimpse through the journal and pictures. But to be able to share such a moment and view with these two other hikers who know where we’ve been to get here is just indescribable.

I’ve been thinking about the sounding/being happy thing. I’m not bopping along having fun every minute of every day. The adrenalin push lasted about three days. Some days are really hard. The hot days, the heat really sucks the energy out of me. Some days my body doesn’t speak to me! Sometimes it’s hard to get up when it’s cold and put wet clothes back on to hike in. Some days I really miss Richard. And sometimes I’m so tired, I’m literally stumbling down the trail. And then I stop and look at where I am and know in my heart how fortunate I am to be here—not to "conquer"—but to be a part of it all. That’s what it means when Sugar Daddy says, "It’s all good."

And then there’s the aspect of confidently being able to take care of myself, but to also be able to give, receive and accept help from other people. Out here, people are genuine. They don’t do things because they "have" to or feel guilted in to it. Whether it’s to give an encouraging word, share a shack, offer water, doctor each other or whatever—it’s all shared and given freely. Another form of Trail Magic. And it just makes it all the more a special journey. A journey that for me seems to have new or added meaning and purpose daily. There’s a wonderful feeling of accomplishment and self-satisfaction with a huge dose of humility at the end of each day.

Remember when we were kids and some days you’d have dirt beads in the creases of your arms and neck if you played really hard? I’m playing really hard! Why in the world they give you WHITE washcloths at hotels is beyond me. I couldn’t believe the dirt on the washcloth and in the tub when I took a shower in Gatlinburg. And several times yesterday, I stopped and got excited because my fingernails were clean!

I’m gonna have a little lunch and get moving again. Best way to describe how I feel is that I really truly am "wild and free—grounded, with wings". I’m so blessed!

I wore my very red (had a choice between red and a pukey orange) aqua shoes last night. Everybody’s jealous again. Shane wanted to touch them; Eggman said I could click them and be home; Jiff wants to get the marker out and decorate them; and Farmer Bob just shook his head and said, "Those are really red".

I have discovered the most wonderful thing---banana cream cookies. Wish I had bought more! I started to fizzle out about 1:00 and still had 5 ½ miles to go. We all have to sleep in the shelter tonight. Yuck. There are no tent areas outside this one.

I got a little discouraged this afternoon. Trying to be content with my own slow pace, but I have moments I want to be a power hiker like Farmer Bob. Right now, it’s hard to imagine I’ll ever do a 20-mile day! It was getting cool, so I went and put my long johns on—came back and told everybody if I was any more color coordinated, they couldn’t stand me. Pink pants under khaki shorts, blue fleece jacket and red shoes. Eggman asked if we were having a fashion contest, and Farmer Bob—never missing a beat—laughed and said "Yeah, and you win hands down!"

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