Three weeks! I’ve stopped for lunch in a sunny little grassy spot surrounded by evergreens. I was glad I didn’t get up and hike in the dark this morning. One, I probably would have fallen off the mountain in the dark. Two, it was cold. Three, would’ve missed the incredible views. I love these trees. Sadly, a lot of the Fraser Firs are dying because pollution has weakened the tops and they are attacked by some kind of insects. Clingman’s Dome is the highest point on the AT (6,642 feet). It is so neat. We were fortunate to have a clear day. They say you used to be able to see 100 miles away with 360-degree views. Now with pollution from power generation plants and industry, 30 miles visibility is what you get on a good day. I think we got our 30 miles worth. Not to mention an extra special "Kodak moment" enhanced by the strangers we asked to take our picture.

At the top of Clingman’s, there’s a cool observation tower. Now Big Bird had described it as a big, ugly UFO. I liked it. It was very innovative. It’s made from concrete, and instead of stairs, there’s a paved ramp that spirals around to the top of the round dome. Well, Jiff and I were up there sharing one of our "awesome women" moments, feeling a little proud that we’ve come nearly 200 miles and were standing where we were. This place is visited a lot by tourists from a parking lot 1/2 mile below. Well, Ma and Pa – been married forever – elderly couple walked up and we asked them to take a picture of us together. Well, Pa wants us to stand somewhere where he thinks the sun is right, but I wanted some certain mountains in the background. So he takes one with Jiff’s camera where he thinks we need to be, but he’s not sure he took it cause he didn’t hear anything. Not to worry … Ma says Pa can’t hear. I politely ask Pa to take another picture with my camera where I want us to stand. Pa’s not sure what he sees – he thinks it’s his thumb. Jiff is turning her head laughing and whispering, "This is so funny … you have to put this in your journal." It was all I could do not to bust out laughing. I don’t know if either of us actually have a picture. Then Pa goes on to tell us we’re only doing 10 miles a day and that’s not enough and to be sure and stop and look at some particular shelter. Now, keep in mind Ma shakes her head and contradicts Pa. It was a hoot! I think I want to get married again just to have somebody to pester when I’m old!

Back to this morning … Farmer Bob said it was good I didn’t sleep in the shelter. Bad, bold mice last night that wouldn’t go away in spite of the beating, banging, and flashlights in their little beady eyes.

On the way up to Clingman’s this morning, I passed several women out for a hike who were being Trail Angels and handing out apples or oranges and Girl Scout cookies to thru hikers. Just when I needed a little boost.

I left out a "picture this" moment my first day in the GSMNP because I was too tired that night to write about it. Okay, picture this … woman’s first day in the park and she’s excited. After four miles up the Shuckstack with a full heavy pack at 80 degrees, she gets to the first shelter, which is awful (as Baltimore Jack says, "I’ve seen the privy – now where’s the shelter?") and is supposed to be torn down. Just can’t quite bring herself to stay there, so she goes on. Gets tired way before the next shelter. Decides she has to stop a minute, but doesn’t want to take her pack off, so she carefully perches herself on a rock just to take the weight of the pack off her shoulders for a minute. Minute goes by, and she finds she cannot stand up with the pack on. Undoes the hipbelt, but forgets the sternum strap. It was an ugly moment. How I got up and got that stupid pack back on and made it to that shelter is beyond me!!

My body is not being particularly cooperative today. I’m not sick and I don’t hurt, just not enough energy to go very fast. I don’t go fast on good days, but today I’m really dragging. Jiff said she kinda felt the same way.

Eggman said yesterday that his energy level had dropped the last two days. Think we need this town break in Gatlinburg, TN tonight. Guess I’d better put my boots back on and mosey on that way.

I’ve had such a fantastic afternoon. Coming across and down Mt. Collins with evergreens on both sides of the trail. Interesting methods of erosion control the park service has used. I haven’t slowed down this much and just felt the joy of the simple things in ages … probably since the kids were little and we stopped to look at everything. Can’t help but wonder if they were here now (teenagers) if they would see all the wonders, or moan and groan about walking so far! The air smells so good. I’m sitting in the grass at Indian Gap before I finish my last 1.7 miles and hitch into Gatlinburg. There used to be an old rugged road here that people used to get over these mountains until the new road was built in the 1930’s. I’m still fascinated with the massive trees that fall over and pull up their entire root systems, dirt, rocks, and all. I passed an area late this afternoon designated as a " Beech Tree Exclosure" – an area fenced to keep the wild hogs out. They weren’t introduced here until the 1950’s and apparently destroyed some of the native trees and flowers.

Well, I said a prayer I’d find a safe ride to Gatlinburg. When I got almost to the road at Newfound Gap, I passed a small group of tourists looking at flowers. I asked if anyone was going to Gatlinburg and could give a stinky thru hiker a ride, a teenager (Chelsea) said, "Oh, my mom will!" Mom, with three kids, on vacation here from Indiana, said ok. They were a neat family. Not only did she bring me the 15 miles to town, but drove me around until we found the hotel where everyone was staying. My angels of the day!!

Lindsey, Chelsea is 14 and reminded me of you. They were my super Trail Angels of the day. I’m so lucky. Got here and Julia had left me a key at the front desk. Went to do laundry and the return trolley broke down and I had to wait 40 minutes, so I got back late and didn’t make it to dinner with everybody. Oh well, I tried! Met a couple from Ohio (Scout and Tenderfoot) at the laundry mat. I was craving Mexican food and a margarita. Sure wasn’t good ole Tex Mex! Well, for somebody who has been going to bed at 8:30 p.m., it’s way past my bedtime. It’s been a wonderful day! I couldn’t believe all the dirt that washed off in the shower. Never take showers and toilets for granted!!

Sugar Daddy is going to leave the trail tomorrow to go to Pennsylvania and check on his mom. Hope she does well and recovers quickly. He’s such a sweetheart. I know he’ll feel better after he see her. He says he’s coming back and will see us all in Damascus at Trail Days. I’m going to miss him. Who will be the "mother hen?" He said for us to remember, "It’s all good."

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