AHHH … the soak in the tub was wonderful. I couldn’t get enough lotion on my skin, and a real pillow to sleep on. Let me just tell you that the tweezers on the micra-leatherman do NOT pluck eyebrows, so don’t even try. The Hike Inn has been a great place. It was very relaxing – though I never get to relax as much in town as I think I will. Shower, wash clothes, air out tent and sleeping bag, resupply, post office, wash out the water bottles, etc. Yes, life has gotten much simpler, but there is still much to be done to prepare for the next stretch.

Got off about 10:00 a.m. this morning. Saw the gang at the post office. Saw Wonder and Strider at the dam. Met the neatest man at the dam. He is a park ranger here (probably in his 80’s). He hiked the AT southbound before. Today is his last day here; he’s going to Colorado to be a park host at another national park. The kind of fellow I’d love to sit and talk to, but it’s already getting hot so we only talked a few minutes. Blasted gnats and flies have been driving me crazy since I crossed the dam.

Many Sleeps says 700+ thru hikers have come through this year. He says 50% who started at Springer never cross Fontana Dam, and I crossed! He told me he’s never heard the "bark like a dog" thing to scare the bears, but do make noise and absolutely never, ever run from a black bear. Now, there are only 3-4 of 6 or 7 spaces at the shelter for thru hikers. Otherwise you have to tent outside the fence on the front of the shelter. I asked Many Sleeps if the people inside the shelters just sit and watch the bear bait people in tents. He said they haven’t had a woman dug out of her tent by a bear yet this year. I’ve decided these people aren’t trying to scare us, but rather just want us to have a heightened awareness in this area.

Stopped to take my boots off for a few minutes and sit in the shade, but these blasted gnats are swarming around me. Happy to report that I can take six steps now before stopping to gasp for air (instead of every two steps). I feel like I’m on the DORBA Friday night ride back home. Sometimes the bugs are bad. I have gotten a little extra protein today. While gasping for air, some of the nasty little bugs have flown down my throat. There’s an art, you know, to knowing when to spit them out and when they’ve gone too far and you might as well take a swig of water and just swallow. Can’t take much more of this. Might as well put the boots back on and go. I can see the tower on top of the mountain where I’m going. A heck of a lot closer than looking at it from the dam, but still a bit away.

Thought I was never going to get to the shelter tonight. Finally did, and Gump, Strider, and Wonder were here. There are also a bunch of high school kids here. I was going to sleep in the shelter until Baltimore Jack came along and called it the "mouse dungeon." Decided to take my chances in the tent. Longstride and GI Joe showed up too. Baltimore Jack is a good ambassador for thru hikers. I enjoy his company. He’s 42 so it’s kinda nice to talk to him. The rest of the gang stayed back at the last shelter.

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