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April 22, 2001
The Hike Inn, Fontana Dam, North Carolina
Miles Today 6.5 Total Miles 161.7

There were 20+ people in and around the shelter last night. I was up and out by 7:30 a.m. I got more and more excited as I could see Fontana Dam getting closer and closer. Stopped by the Fontana Hilton (a super deluxe shelter) and filled out my Backcountry Camping Permit for Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP). WhoooHoooo!! A special moment for me. I have 7 nights and 8 days to make it through the Smokies. Have to study the map tonight and do a little planning. You have to stay at the shelters, so I may have to push a little harder the next few days. I’m sitting in the grass in the shade at the Fontana Dam Visitor’s Center (which is closed until May 5) waiting for a shuttle from the Hike Inn to pick me up. Had to bum a quarter off four mountain bikers to call the shuttle. Nice guys from Tennessee here riding for the weekend. Fellow mountain bikers unite! They even gave me two quarters!

Fontana Dam is supposed to be the highest in the eastern U.S. Maybe I’m just looking at it wrong, but it doesn’t look that big to me. Maybe I’m just disappointed the Visitor’s Center is closed, and I couldn’t get the cold drink I’ve been craving!

They do have showers and nice bathrooms open though! I didn’t look as bad as I thought I did when I finally got enough courage to look in the mirror.

I don’t know why I’m so excited about GSMNP. Just something I’ve dreamed about – and now I’m really here!

The rest of the guys went to the resort. I’m at the Hike Inn. Try "5-room" instead of "5-star." But another great place, and I’m glad I chose to stay here. Nancy and Jeff are so nice. Sean (Gump) is here from Georgia. I’ve seen him on the trail, and then there are two section hikers here from Holland for 3 weeks. We all drove to "town" to eat dinner and take care of all the town business. Nancy is so laid back. They’re just really nice to hikers. Jeff was telling us about the bear activity and how the bears in the park aren’t hunted, so they behave differently. He said don’t run, but stand tall and bark like a dog. All seriousness! He says the bears know they can’t get the food off the pulleys near the shelter – and they watch sometimes. Well, needless to say, I believe I’ll pick up the pace and try to stay with a group. He wasn’t trying to scare us, just inform us, so we think about it before an encounter. He says those are NOT Kodak moments. There are plenty of bears where we’ve just been, but they are hunted and are more afraid of people.

Pretty much spent the afternoon airing stuff out, sorting food, repacking. Fixing to go soak in the tub till I wrinkle and then sleep in a BED – first one since Hiawassee. Nancy showed me a picture of the Pileated Woodpecker. These birds go off like an alarm clock every morning about 6:30 a.m. or 7:00 a.m. I’ve heard they have huge wingspans, but haven’t seen one yet.

Plan is to hit the post office when it opens at 8:30 in the morning, and then get back on the trail. Hope the weather stays good through the Smokies.

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